ffilz wrote:The buttress at the end probably should just be 1x2 slope, otherwise two adjacent 2x2 slopes will be awfully wide.
The other option is to suggest there NOT be a buttress at the end.
Actually, no matter what the standard is, joining wall sections that are very different in style may look odd.
Well, I personally like the buttresses and think they look cool in the water but they may be better left off the substandard.
IF we adopt the "moat substandard" and IF we keep the buttresses, I agree that they should be 1x slopes.
The wall-style issue has always been a problem but it has worked so far. We did even discuss a "double-height substandard" at one point a few years ago in which transitions and different styles were an issue.
SEdmison wrote:I love the idea of realigning CCC wall sections to base8 alignment.
It does seem like a bit of a "no-brainer" to me and I cannot think of any real objections.
Of course, I do see objections for the "interior" which is why I suggest bare baseplates for the interior. If we move to BpB inside the city then we lose the ability to easily install and move buildings.
...I've been using baseplate-plus-brick-plus-plate. This allows me to put 1x2 bricks with Technic pin holes or Technic axle holes to allow connecting sections, and then to have a plate over them to anchor them to the rest of the section (to keep them from sheering off).
The really great thing about BpB in practice is that an occasional single plate up or down at the edges is actually desirable and easy to deal with on the day. Reinforcing a connector brick is not a big deal and does not even require the standard to be rewritten.
I went a little nuts with the Technic connectors; I didn't necessarily have to have that many connectors all the way around the section, but you get the idea.
Love the detail on the samples.
Re: pin connectors: I find them totally unnecessary for landscaping. The pins are usually annoying to deal with as I find them stiff and impede movement as you are doing layout. If you simply throw on a few plates, trees or other "details" here and there it joins the segments more effectively (pins often leave gaps) and adds more visual interest to what becomes oddly flat strips of landscape at the joints. I borrowed a trick from my trainhead friend who has a ziploc bag full of 2x2 green plates which he uses to lock down baseplates on a table. One person provides a bag for the display and if a few here or there don't make it back to the correct owner no big deal.
If it is decided that pins are needed I would suggest we copy the pin hole positions from the wall sections and simply put two pin holes in the middle of the 8cre. But as I said, I don't think we really need them.