Most defendable: 6086 (Only one weak point as I can see)
Most realistic: 6080
Some defensive help, please!
-
Dragon Master
- Merchant
- Posts: 1345
- Joined: Tue Sep 30, 2003 8:30 pm
- Location: USA
Oh please! 6080 is not realistic. The walls can easily be scaled by any minifig with a little effort. It is fairly small castle, there is no interior barracks or shelters, and the CWPs make the walls thinner than the minifigs!Devari wrote:Most defendable: 6086 (Only one weak point as I can see)
Most realistic: 6080
DM
"I have looked for you. Now you have come to me. And I thank you." -Pope John Paul II
-
Commander Redbeard
- Bailiff
- Posts: 320
- Joined: Fri Feb 27, 2004 12:21 am
- Location: Northeastern USA
as for the hill, i don't have near enough bulk supplies to create that and keep my other kingdoms defended. Can anyone think of ideas to build siege engines i could use? I must hurry, the cking army approaches!
Sitting in a midnight glade
Firelight dancing off burnished blade
A Forestman sits
Wondering about the next day
But after three mugs of ale
Let it bring what it may.
Firelight dancing off burnished blade
A Forestman sits
Wondering about the next day
But after three mugs of ale
Let it bring what it may.
Tips to harry an invading army:
* Send out skirmishers to slow the coming army's advance and set up ambushes to take out scouts. If they constantly have to defend their flanks against raiders, and keep losing their advance warning, they will feel they are entering more hostile territory. Anyone you manage to kidnap, after interrogating about the army's plans, mount their corpse along the path of the army's march as an example.
* Send assassins to burn the tents of captains and generals, to worry the leaders and frighten the troops. In the middle ages, leaders often turned the tide of battle by keeping troops from breaking, so you want to attack that trust early.
* Set up obstacles such as covered pits, and poison sources of water along the path of the army. In extreme cases, turn out the villagers along the way against them, and scorch the land they'll travel through to stretch or break their supply lines.
It's dangerous to attack a large group of armed men, but if you time it well and carry the battle to them then you can weaken their siege.
As far as siege engines, I link to many examples on my LEGO Castle Tech page.
To defend the fort itself, the first thing you need to do is coat the wood in a flame-resistant material like Japanese keeps. Next, build another lower ring of walls for a first defense, and build a wooden (stone, if you have time) tower in the middle of the fort as a keep.
Finally, secure a line of retreat when they come and take your fort.
* Send out skirmishers to slow the coming army's advance and set up ambushes to take out scouts. If they constantly have to defend their flanks against raiders, and keep losing their advance warning, they will feel they are entering more hostile territory. Anyone you manage to kidnap, after interrogating about the army's plans, mount their corpse along the path of the army's march as an example.
* Send assassins to burn the tents of captains and generals, to worry the leaders and frighten the troops. In the middle ages, leaders often turned the tide of battle by keeping troops from breaking, so you want to attack that trust early.
* Set up obstacles such as covered pits, and poison sources of water along the path of the army. In extreme cases, turn out the villagers along the way against them, and scorch the land they'll travel through to stretch or break their supply lines.
It's dangerous to attack a large group of armed men, but if you time it well and carry the battle to them then you can weaken their siege.
As far as siege engines, I link to many examples on my LEGO Castle Tech page.
To defend the fort itself, the first thing you need to do is coat the wood in a flame-resistant material like Japanese keeps. Next, build another lower ring of walls for a first defense, and build a wooden (stone, if you have time) tower in the middle of the fort as a keep.
Finally, secure a line of retreat when they come and take your fort.
Jason (lego at jcatena dot net)
Classic-castle [url=http://www.classic-castle.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=874]Master Gatekeeper[/url], March 2004
http://www.jcatena.net/lego
Classic-castle [url=http://www.classic-castle.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=874]Master Gatekeeper[/url], March 2004
http://www.jcatena.net/lego
Now that is really nifty! I like that tile support idea! I never really thought about such a way to support the castle! When you go to place a minifig on the castle, does it ever cave in slightly or tip?SavaTheAggie wrote:Not to toot my own horn or anything, but if you're looking to situate your creation on a hill, may I suggest what I did for Halcyon Castle?
It's not the greatest of techniques, as building a hill purely out of bricks would be the most realistic.
However, I build my castle on baseplates, and those baseplates sit on tiles inside a mock-hill, which gives the illustion that the castle is, in fact, built on a hill.
The Castle:
http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?i=688530
The Hill:
http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?i=688505
--Anthony
[img]http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/DLM/HTML/sig_cccopy.jpg[/img]
My lego site: http://www.geocities.com/ninekiller2003/
My lego site: http://www.geocities.com/ninekiller2003/
-
SavaTheAggie
- Lord Sava of Aggie
- Posts: 2419
- Joined: Tue Sep 09, 2003 6:36 am
- Location: Houston
- Contact:
Sorry for responding so late but..Dan_BL wrote:Now that is really nifty! I like that tile support idea! I never really thought about such a way to support the castle! When you go to place a minifig on the castle, does it ever cave in slightly or tip?SavaTheAggie wrote:Not to toot my own horn or anything, but if you're looking to situate your creation on a hill, may I suggest what I did for Halcyon Castle?
It's not the greatest of techniques, as building a hill purely out of bricks would be the most realistic.
However, I build my castle on baseplates, and those baseplates sit on tiles inside a mock-hill, which gives the illustion that the castle is, in fact, built on a hill.
The Castle:
http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?i=688530
The Hill:
http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?i=688505
--Anthony
It works very well. As long as no more than say a ... 6 or 8 stud gap between pillars under the baseplates, there's no bend or flex to the baseplate. Of course, that probably has a lot to do with the fact there's a lot of weight on top of the outer edge of the baseplates. On larger areas of the castle, where it supports its own weight and provides it's own inflexibility, like the keep's floor, I used less pillars.
--Anthony
[url=http://www.ikros.net][img]http://www.ikros.net/links/ikrosbuttonsmall.jpg[/img][/url]
Give a man a fire and he'll be warm for a day.
Set a man on fire and he'll be warm for the rest of his life.
Give a man a fire and he'll be warm for a day.
Set a man on fire and he'll be warm for the rest of his life.